Infrared photography looks like nothing else. I’m sure you’ve seen some IR photos around the web, but maybe you don’t know how to achieve this special effect? Look no further, here’s a guide on what to think about when choosing your object, how to shoot and what to do in post-production.
Photography is the art of capturing light, IR photography on the other hand is the art of capturing invisible light — but the challenge comes with its benefits, IR photographs can be really attention grabbing and otherworldly.
What you need
First of all you need to have a D-SLR camera with a lens that can use filters. Then you need to purchase an IR-filter, there are a few out there and the main difference (assuming we’re looking at the same brand) is the range of wavelengths that the filter lets through.
The IR filter I use is the Hoya R72, all the IR photographs in this article are taken using that filter. I’m very happy with this filter, but since it’s the only one I’ve tried I can’t recommend it above any other one.
Another piece of equipment that is crucial is the tripod. With D-SLR cameras it’s impossible to take IR photographs without proper stabilizer. Sure, I guess you could have your camera placed on a table or a solid rock, but the best way is no doubt to get a good tripod. Since we’re going to be using a slow shutter speed, long exposure, the tripod needs to be very stable.
Different lenses handles IR photography differently, and in this case it’s not necessarily decided by the price of the lens — these lenses are not designed for IR photography and therefore some of them just doesn’t work very well in this field.

The Canon kit-lens, 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6, for example will create a hotspot in the center of the photograph as seen in the photograph above. This is an effect that only appears on some lenses. If you’re serious about IR photography you might want to consider purchasing a lens that works well with IR — if so, there are several websites that have lists of good/bad IR lenses.
What do I photograph?
First and foremost, you need to understand the concept of capturing invisible light, invisible to the human eye that is. The world looks totally different in Infrared, and there are a few things to think about.
A blue sky will appear black, or very dark, while foliage will get a distinct white color. This creates amazing contrast in the image that makes the photo ‘pop’. Due to the long exposure time, portraits and other non-static sceneries can be hard to capture, this is one of the reasons why most IR photographs are landscape shots.
You need to test and see what you can come up with; it can take a long time before you fully grasp the idea of capturing and composing with infrared light.
How to photograph
I would like to say something like “and now to the fun part” but in this case the photo shoot itself can be rather annoying and/or time consuming. Don’t get me wrong, IR photography is fun, but the way you have to shoot when you’re using an unmodified D-SLR camera is far from an optimal solution.
When the filter is attached to the lens you will most likely see nothing in the viewfinder. The filter is designed to block visible light and it does so quite well. This will result in two hassles — you cannot see what’s in frame and what’s not, nor can you see what’s in focus. The best way to solve the first problem is to set up your tripod and find a good composition before attaching the IR filter.
The focus distance is not the same for IR light as it is for visible light, so you will have to re-focus after the IR filter is attached. This can be really troublesome since you won’t see anything in the viewfinder, older lenses might have a special IR focus distance listed, but modern Auto Focus (AF) lenses does not have this. The best solution is to have the camera auto focus with the IR filter on, or step down the aperture enough to get focus the entire distance.
Now you’re set to go, but your cameras exposure meter isn’t working correctly so you will have to use manual exposure. Most IR photographs I’ve taken have had an exposure time between 10-30 seconds. With these long exposure times we not only risk getting motion blur but also heavy noise levels. The longer the exposure the more noise will be created, that’s not specific for IR photography but a general rule in photography. Use the lowest ISO setting to try and keep the noise level as low as possible.
Post-production
What the outcome will look like depends on what filter you used and how the camera handles IR light.
If you use a filter like the Hoya R72 that I use your result will be heavily red/magenta tinted images. This is what’s called “false colors“, and it can be fixed in Photoshop, which is what I will show in this part of the article.
Open your IR photo in Photoshop. The first thing we want to do is to use a feature called Channel Mixer. Create a new adjustment layer and select Channel Mixer. You can now control the channels RED, GREEN and BLUE. What we want to do is switch the Red and the Blue channel.
Select Red and drag the Red setting to 0% and drag the Blue setting to 100%
Select Blue and drag the Blue setting to 0% and drag the Red setting to 100%
You can also experiment with changing the Green channel or such as well, find a good mix for every scenery.
You should now have removed that heavily tinted red/magenta color from your photograph, but the current look might not be much better either.
What you want to do now is play around with the Levels and Curve settings, if you’re new to these adjustment tools you can always hit Auto and see if you like the outcome.
This was a very quick guide on how to change that false color in Photoshop, but there isn’t any magic number that works for all photographs — you will just have to test and see. Then again, that’s basically what IR is all about in the beginning, this is a technique that takes some time getting used to and it will involve a lot of not so perfect shots. Don’t give up — the results can be astonishing!
(I’m by no means talented in IR photography, these examples are very basic but hopefully they give you a feel for this style.)
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76 Comments Leave a Comment
Hi, I got a problem here. I love to take photo but I don’t have any camera(usually, I’ll use my friend’s camera). I don’t know which camera should I buy(FYI, I am a student and money are my biggest problem). But I love to be a, I don’t know, a part time photographer maybe.. So, where should I start?
Hi Dana,
Try this site for practical impartial advice.
http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/recommended-cameras.htm
Enjoy
I noticed the beautiful colors in the photo after the color correction. Did you created those colors together with the removal of the false colors, or the colors are there once the false colors are corrected? Are IR photos black and white? Are those colors in the final photo artificial?
Those colors are there when you switch the blue and red channels around, so they are not created so to speak. It’s hard to answer if the colors are “artificial”, since that’s not actually what infrared light looks like — we humans can’t see those wavelengths of light. Black and white is a great way to go with IR photography, since it creates so lovely contrasts, but IR itself is not B&W (no more than our normal world is black and white etc).
I don’t have that much knowledge on the subject, but if you’re interested I suggest you look into light wavelength and how we humans perceive light and colors.
Thank you very much for your quick and comprehensive reply, Fredrik.
Thanks for solving the hotspot for me. I was getting this on my Canon 350d and the 55m lens and could not find the answer. I am now using older EF lens that were designed for the Canon EF (film) cameras and having no problems. I also have several other brand “film” lens/adapters which also work OK. Cheers.
Hi
Its wonderfull … i got hoya and i tried to do the same .. i got red pic and then i tried to change the blue and red color as u said but i faild to get nice pic.
I think we need more to learn.
Thanks
Mind you, newer ‘prosumer’ cameras like the Nikon D300 seem to be blocking IR light too well (in regular photographs, this is a good thing) to be used for this purpose. For instance a cheaper model like the D50 lets through much more light in the infrared range.
wow Great article, thanks!
wow Great article, thanks!149
wow Great article, thanks!154
wow Great article, thanks!167
I have read long ago, that some digital cameras aren’t good for IR due to their digital sensor. Any comments guys? Do you know which makes are working and which aren’t?
I really loved the 1st picture for the forest, amazing,..!
I’m having an issue. I get everything fine up until the channel mixer point (adjustment layer). The image instead of being magenta is now all blue. When I do auto levels it works, but not very well and very grainy. I would prefer doing it manually but get stuck at the blue point.
Great tut anyway!
ok so i just got my infrared filter. Its some off brand 950nm filter. I am using a 40d that has the hot mirror on it. I am getting these very purple images that seem to be black and white photos with purple tint. So when i reverse the red and blue channels i get the same purple effect. any ideas how i could fix the problem, other than removing the hot mirror?
Hello there…. I picked up a camera that was converted to take only IR photos. (runs @ 3oo$ for the conversion) It works better than a lense because you can “see” what your taking a photo of, and dont neccesarily need the tripod. I had an IR lens..but it was too difficult. Now I just point, click. But I get colored images..purple or orange or blue..depending what I set my white balance at.
In photoshop I go to where I can make the photo B+W…then select “scenic”….it gives a nice effect. You can add gradients as a layer for some nice color effects..dropping the opacity down to @ 20-30% … Or you can hand color with your brushes..
nice article. question, though. i have the red IR image loaded into photoshop, and already switched the red and blue channels, but what i get is an image with a blue tint. adjusting the levels and curves only makes the green images whiter, but the rest still remains a deep blue hue. i can’t get any other color out. am i doing something wrong? i’m using a canon 400d with an r72 filter. thanks!
i have several lenses,size 52mm 55mm 58 mm.should i buy a 58mm r72 with step down rings in case my 52mm lens has spots in them.thanks,wallymc
y my IR filter lens doesnt work… no image on my camera all black?
you need to set your camera so the lens is open longer..really long…like 20-30 seconds. so you’ll need that tripod…lol
hey.we really appreciate all the tips for beginner like me. im really having problems with my ir photography.my photos doesn’t come out like your false color red sky n purple trees. all i get is either all purple nor all red.so when i try swapping the red n blue in photoshop it doesn’t make a difference.im using a nikon d80 n opteka hd2 r72 ir filter. i dont know which is wrong? the camera or the filter? any tips? thanks
I have a similar problem as ayret. I get all red, and when I follow the instructions and switch the red and blue in Channel Mixer, my red photographs just turn into royal blue. I’ve tried the Levels and Curves, played with the green in Channel Mixer, adjusted the blue and red in Channel Mixer to 50% each to see if that helps, but no. Help!
Hi, you gotta set the white balance first. I recommend shooting in RAW format, then adjusting the white balance. Programmes such as Bibble can help a lot in removing the red cast.
Can you inform me, If I use Lens (TAMRON 70-300) is it ok to use IR Filter ?
Thanks for this amazing tut.
I’ve learned a lot today.
Obrigado
Thank you so much for this amazing tutorial!
Can’t wait to get the IR filter to try it out!!!
Hi
am facing problem which is removing that heavily tinted red/magenta color from the image ..i used channel mixer to solve the problem by adjusting the red “Red –red 0 -blue 100 and vice versa but i end up with heavy blue cast image ..i really need help on this part many thanks .
hi! i just want to ask.. will a nikon d5000 be good for IR?
i had a d70 covertion to irfarered but wheni tried to take a white balance reading i might have pressed the wrong button or turn the wrongknob as i now have replace the red cast with a blue one and i cant find my way back thankyou for your help i hope you can help me john cameron
I am experimenting with a hoya R72 filter on my Olypus sp 590 uz bridge camera but i get a bright haze at the centre of my pictures. am i doing something wrong or is my camera not suitable for IR photoraphy?
Anyone know if you can IR with a Sony Alpha 200?
Thanks for posting!